When Chef Ana Damaskin was offered the opportunity to helm the kitchen at Peasant Cookery, it was an easy yes. “It’s a really exciting opportunity and a welcome challenge,” she shares. “There’s a strong sense of nostalgia connected to Peasant for me, and that really influenced my decision. Being offered this position felt really meaningful.”
Damaskin was part of the original Peasant Cookery team when it opened in 2010 before growing her resume with time at Prairie’s Edge (another Wow! Hospitality spot), Capital Grill and Gusto North. The restaurant quickly became a mainstay in the heart of the Exchange District with its casual but refined French comfort food. It’s the kind of place that seems to fit into every plan imaginable; it’s nice enough for celebration or pre-theatre dinners and date night but not too pretentious for casual drinks after work. The burnished mirrors and chalkboard charcuterie offerings that fill the walls are reminiscent of a Parisian bistro, while mason jars sealed with house-pickled veg lining the windowsills embody its mantra, Real food from the land.
Executive Chef Damaskin is embracing her culinary freedom to push the kitchen forward by drawing inspiration from its past. “We’re focusing on making food that is honest,” she says, noting their renewed commitment to scratch cooking and an emphasis on local ingredients and partnerships. Guests that have been visiting Peasant since the beginning will remember that everything was made in-house—even the mayonnaise—and the kitchen is back at it. Peasant Cookery is returning to its roots.
Along with familiar menu items, such as the rotating moules et frittes, Damaskin is also including more features on weekends, bringing back that creative flair when inspiration strikes. “Everyone brings something unique to the kitchen and there’s a genuine eagerness to learn and grow,” she adds. “We have a mix of seasoned cooks and newer team members, and it’s incredibly rewarding to see knowledge being shared so naturally.”
Manitoba sourced pickerel is a mainstay on the menu, and Damaskin is looking forward to bringing more local ingredients into the mix. When summer rolls around, we’ll see more local produce incorporated into dishes. She’s even exploring becoming part of Fireweed Food Hub, a local food coop. Peasant Cookery’s pickle program is alive and well, and summer will bring more variety to fermentation with local farmers growing interesting crops like purple broccoli and green cauliflower.
But the return to familiarity isn’t without newness. The restaurant is now serving brunch on Saturdays, featuring dishes like saskatoon berry stuffed French toast alongside classic breakfast favourites. It’s also rolled out a happy hour menu between 4 to 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close, with an expanded mocktail menu and new desserts on the way.
“I’m most excited about mentoring more students and continuing to pass on what I’ve learned over the years,” she says. “I’m also really looking forward to being creative again with the whole team and building something strong together.”
Peasant Cookery is open Mondays from 4:30 to 10 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. at 283 Bannatyne Ave.
Website: https://peasantcookery.ca